If you’ve considered dermaplaning, but want to know more about what the treatment involves before deciding it’s right for you, we’re here to answer all your top questions. We chatted with Karen Fernandez, Lead Aesthetician at SkinSpirit, to get all the details you need to know about dermaplaning.

What is dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning is the exfoliation of your superficial dead skin cells with a razor-like implement. The dermaplaning tool houses a sharp, straight edge, medical grade razor that glides over the skin, removing dead skin cells and hairs from that stratum corneum layer.

What are the benefits of dermaplaning?

Exfoliating in general helps the skin breathe and feel healthier as well as absorb products better and promote that glow. Dermaplaning is a particularly effective method of exfoliation as it thoroughly removes all the dead skin cells but does so “quietly.” What I mean is it does not involve any suction or manipulating that can come with other exfoliation methods (ie: microdermabrasion or a scrub). It stealthily gets in there and resurfaces the skin’s surface and creates a beautiful glow.

Who is dermaplaning best for? 

Most skin! As a rule of thumb, those over about 25 years old. (see below!) It is especially great for more delicate or thin skin that cannot tolerate the more abrasive methods – and skin prone to redness or broken capillaries as the suction can worsen those conditions. Those with heavier or darker facial hair really benefit as it instantly brightens the skin, removing the dark shadow the vellus hairs can cause (even around the eyes!). It couples very well with those getting laser hair removal on any facial area too. 

Is there anyone that should avoid dermaplaning? 

Younger skin does not always do well with dermaplaning. The vellus hairs (the “peach fuzz”) is also a way oil can exit the skin and help skin regulate – so when it is removed, skin that is very oily may have a breakout (like tiny bumps everywhere). Also, active acne is a contraindication – it would be too irritating to actively open on infected skin, and it would spread the bacteria and possibly worsen the acne.

Are there any risks or side effects that someone can experience from dermaplaning?

The first time you have it done, your skin will feel a bit weird…almost numb. This is because the little hairs we removed were also receptors to nerve endings – so without them you lack sensation on the skin’s surface! This will resolve as you re-epithelize (or re-build your outer layer of protective dead skin). Since skin is so vulnerable right after dermaplaning, it is important to limit any contact of any bacteria to avoid a breakout. I have found that some just don’t like how their skin feels and they prefer the Diamond Glow or microdermabrasion as that has less post treatment feelings of sensitivity. That said, many love it and love how smooth and soft their skin feels after - especially after you have done a few times and your skin is acclimated and toned! 

How should someone prepare for a dermaplaning treatment?

Stop using your “actives” 3-5 days before your treatment. Actives refers to retinols, topical medications, AHA’s or other topicals that might make skin more sensitive. Come to your treatment with non-irritated or enflamed skin - no sunburn or chemical burn. 

What is the difference between a professional dermaplaning facial and one done at home?

The blade that is used and the technique are the main differences. The blade used must be the highest quality surgical steel which offers a more thorough and yet gentle exfoliation possible. These are only available in medical professional offices.  I have tried many blades in my time, and there are only a few that really get the job done and leave little or no irritation on the skin when done! Some leave hairs behind, some are rough and uneven which can leave the skin with marks. The blades sold over the counter are flimsy and small and really just meant for superficial touch ups. These superficial touch up blades are designed to remove the visible hairs from small areas (upper lip for example) but not to exfoliate the skin properly. These are not made of anti-microbial material and so will harbor bacteria which can cause acne break outs.

Also, if the treatment is not done thoroughly - or assertively enough -the skin can break out in small bumps everywhere. If only the hairs are removed - and not the dead skin layer - you will have a back of oils collect under the skin (trapped, under layer of un-removed dead skin), so being too light and superficial will work against you as well. This is why the quality of the practitioner and the blade is vitally important. 

Around how much does it usually cost to have a professional dermaplaning treatment? Where can you get them?

It will be about $200 for a dermaplaning facial, and they will be at medical spa type clinics that have a physician’s license they work under. This is one of our most popular treatments at SkinSpirit Clinics. 

What type of results should someone expect from dermaplaning and how long will they last? How would results on peach fuzz compare to waxing or other hair removal treatments?

The results are smooth, brightened and tightened skin. The results last 4-8 weeks (the variance depends on your skin’s metabolism and type). The peach fuzz will slowly grow back over the course of a month and will feel a bit rough for a day or two as it breaks the surface -usually about 2 weeks after your treatment. But vellus hair will grow back just as it was - this will not increase or stimulate vellus hair growth. Terminal hairs are the thicker darker hairs - usually around the lip and chin - and will come back sooner than they would with waxing or root-based removal methods. BUT… then you can have those pesky terminal hairs zapped with lazar hair removal for a better longer term hair fix!

Is it ok to put on makeup or skincare directly after dermaplaning? How long should you wait before doing so? Is there anything people should avoid doing after dermaplaning?

Avoid the same actives you stopped prior to your treatment - retinols and anything else active - for 2-4 days (or until your skin feels back to “normal” … but better of course!). I always say: gentle cleanser, neutral moisturizer, and physical SPF for the few days after. And avoid direct sun or other heat heavy activities (ie: hot yoga, steam room, golf day in the sun).

I recommend cleaning any and all tools used for make-up application after you have dermaplaning. Those tools harbor bacteria and will increase the chance of a post facial break out. 

Don’t try new products when you are healing up - wait until skin is re-established and back to normal. Also, prepare to be a bit tender and maybe even flushed for the rest of the day - it’s a lot for your skin! Plan to come home to clean pillowcases, clean your make-up brushes or anything that comes into contact with your skin. 

Do you have any tips for someone who wants to try DIY dermaplaning at-home?

I don’t recommend doing this at home! The tools available will more than likely irritate your skin more than help. Removing small patches of hair is different and can be okay with lots of caution and proper use of tools (a fresh razor works great and is safest). But to do the exfoliation and resurfacing the dermaplaning provides is not possible at home. When I do this in clinic, I am using essentially a scalpel - thinking of an untrained person doing this to themselves makes me very nervous! 

Lizzy Sherman is an award-winning digital content writer/editor. She has been a featured guest speaker at Cal State University Northridge, Digital LA, and The National Association of Audience Marketing Professionals. When she's not writing, Lizzy enjoys yoga and playing guitar. Follow her on Instagram: @zillizy