Nemacolin resort offers an exclusive and intimate experience to its guests in the historic Laurel Highlands of Pennsylvania just off Highway 40, also known as the National Road.

The name is an homage to Chief Nemacolin, a native Delaware Indian who in the 1740s trailblazed a route through the mountains of the Laurel Highlands between what is now Cumberland, Maryland, and Brownsville, Pennsylvania.

Discover Nemacolin, a World-Class Resort and Spa in Pennsylvania’s Laurel Highlands

Making the 90-minute drive south from Pittsburgh, you’ll pass Fort Necessity where a young George Washington was defeated in the opening battle of the French and Indian War.

Fallingwater, the house designed by architect Frank Lloyd Wright in 1935, is about 10 miles north in Mill Run.

Amid all this natural beauty sits Nemacolin’s crown jewel, The Chateau.

Inspired by the Ritz in Paris, it rises majestically as you negotiate the steep ascent up the hill after making the turn onto Lafayette Drive—so named for General Lafayette, a French nobleman and military officer who volunteered to join the Continental Army led by General George Washington in the Revolutionary War.

My daughter Rachel and I stayed at The Chateau last year when we visited Nemacolin for the first time.

This summer, the hotel was reimagined with redesigned guest rooms and suites with gorgeous draperies and glittering chandeliers. Bathrooms feature exquisite marble accents and luxurious soaking tubs.

One of the perks at The Chateau is that you can have a butler draw a bath for you at the time of your choosing.

After placing an order for chocolate-covered strawberries, which were delivered to our room, Rachel ordered a bath that included a bubbling wash with a customized aroma.

Her moment of Zen? That would have to be when her butler announced, “Your bath is ready, Madame,” while she sprinkled rose petals on the marble floor. Heaven.

Afternoon tea is offered several days each week in The Bleu Room, where specialty teas are served in porcelain teapots. The lobby too has undergone a transformation. In the spirit of reinvention, gone is the portrait of General Lafayette, which was steeped in the history of the region.

“For us to provide the unparalleled and luxurious service we are known for, it was imperative we reimagine the hotel’s interiors to reflect modern finishes that convey the real-life magic and whimsy we are known for,” says CEO Maggie Hardy, whose father, Joseph A. Hardy III, founded the resort in 1987.

The Grand Lodge, a Tudor Revival-style hotel on the property, was reimagined last year as an all-suite, contemporary and elevated interpretation of the resort’s original lodge with breathtaking views, luxurious finishes, and butler service.

Suites include Keurig and Nespresso coffee machines and Dyson hairdryers. Some even offer a separate sitting area.

Allow one of the adventurous mixologists in the Circle Bar to surprise you with a cocktail as bespoke as a tailor-made suit.

Prefer your cocktails spirit-free? You’re not alone. Millennials have been driving the trend toward non-alcoholic cocktails, and you’ll find several on the menu.

While I enjoy a lemon drop as much as the next person, I ordered a mocktail just to see what all the fuss is about, and the Lavender Dream (lavender mint tea, lemon, simple syrup, blueberries, and mint) did not disappoint.

Also new is Nightcap, a late-night lounge serving cocktails, savory bites, and desserts in a jazz club atmosphere and cabaret performances inspired by vintage glamour.

Reservations are required, but you can also enjoy dinner and a show on designated evenings.  It’s a great way to cap off a perfect day.

We had dinner reservations at Fawn & Fable, the farm-to-table restaurant in The Grand Lodge featuring a menu of staples and steaks grilled to perfection using the finest locally-sourced, sustainable ingredients.

Rachel was thrilled to see that the extensive wine list includes a Cabernet Sauvignon from Caymus Vineyards in the Napa Valley. She describes it as “complex and rich with a ripe, luxurious, fruit-driven softness.”

While Rachel savored a glass of the Caymus, which pairs well with steak and gamier meats, I ordered a California chardonnay from Mer Soleil, a vineyard in Monterey County. A medley of peach and D’Anjou pear layered with notes of pineapple and banana, it has a lush, mouth-filling richness.

We started with appetizers: the Crab Cake with herb salad, charred lemon aioli, and roasted red pepper reduction for Rachel; and the Steakhouse Wedge with smoked blue cheese dressing for me. I’m a sucker for a wedge salad, but while they can be hit-or-miss, this one was superb.

It’s possible to make a meal entirely of sides, they’re that good: Mac and Cheese with cove-aged cheddar; Crispy Brussels Sprouts with soy caramel and chili-roasted peanuts; and Lobster Mac, which needs no explanation.

We settled on three to share: Smoked Cremini Mushrooms, Sea Salt Potato Puree, and Lemon Roasted Asparagus. Rachel had the 18-ounce bone-in ribeye as her main course, while I had the Lobster Risotto. Imagine huge chunks of lemon butter-poached lobster, saffron arborio rice, mascarpone and chives. Absolutely to-die-for.

The dessert menu is extraordinary. The Espresso “Tini” Sphere alone is a work of art—espresso Kahlua cheesecake, chocolate sphere, caramelized brownie biscuit, Kahlua reduction, vanilla mascarpone cream, and salted pretzel crumble. What’s not to like?

Our Itinerary

We checked into The Chateau around noon and were escorted to our room by our personal butler, who told us about some of the amenities that we had not experienced before, including a specialty bath and pillow menu.

Don’t knock the pillow menu until you’ve tried it. There are six to choose from, including one infused with amethyst crystals that assists in dream recall, relieves insomnia, and encourages spiritual wisdom.

Since I had been dealing with painful sciatica, I chose a memory foam pillow with millions of microcapsules infused with high-quality CBD for deeper sleep and relief from chronic pain. I woke refreshed after a night of restful sleep, which doesn’t happen often, so I’d say it worked.

Rachel opted for the TEMPUR-Cloud Breeze Dual Cooling pillow, which kept her cool and comfortable during the night. The secret? Two layers of TEMPUR-Breeze Gel.

Since we had appointments for facials that afternoon, we had a quick lunch at The Patisserie with décor reminiscent of a Parisian pastry shop. It’s on the first floor of The Chateau right across from the Signature Shop.

Stop in for an espresso or cappuccino, and make sure to order one of their freshly baked pastries, including croissants as light and buttery as any I’ve had in Paris. You can work off the calories by taking a long walk around the property where 175 impressive sculptures have been carefully placed to complement the natural beauty of the lush landscape.

Self-Care at Woodlands Spa

As a longtime beauty editor, I’ve had facials at some of the best spas in the country, so I’m not easily impressed, but the 90-minute J’adore les Soin Du Visages Facial surpassed all my expectations.

Created to celebrate the reopening of The Chateau, it pays tribute to its French roots, embracing the highly renowned French skincare line, Biologique Recherche. You’ll love the signature massage, which leaves skin visibly lifted and contoured, while the biocellulose sheet mask reduces puffiness around the eyes. I was deeply relaxed after my service, and my skin felt incredibly smooth and hydrated.

Spa Profile: Woodlands Spa and Salon at Nemacolin

All of the Biologique Recherche products incorporate high concentrations of botanical, marine, and biological extracts. Your trained technician can recommend a list of products available for purchase in the retail area so you can maintain the benefits of this ultra-targeted and personalized facial experience in the months to come.

Every spa treatment includes access to the four-lane indoor lap pool, which is heated to 84 degrees year-round, plus the whirlpool, steam room and sauna. Rachel took advantage of those amenities before our facials, while I chilled out in the Fireside Lounge and enjoyed a cup of tea and a light snack.

Rachel booked the Beyond Botox Facial, which includes a dermal exfoliation, alpha hydroxy gel-based peel, and a firming peptide mask designed to lift, tighten, and tone the skin.

“It’s all about peptides these days,” Rachel says. “They’re like superfood for the skin and help slow down the aging process by enhancing cellular renewal.”

The 120-minute treatment also includes LED light therapy to boost results and smooth fine lines.

“I don’t even go to movies anymore because I can’t stand to sit still that long,” she adds. “But my esthetician kept me engaged the whole time by explaining the benefits of each step.”

An Innovative, Personalized Approach to Integrated Wellness

Our visit to the Holistic Healing Center the next morning included a 90-minute medical massage with assisted stretching for me since I’d been in pain for a couple of weeks due to sciatica. My gifted massage therapist, Jill, was knowledgeable and compassionate, and the setting was lovely. A welcome surprise were the heated floor tiles on that chilly October morning.

Rachel had a curated wellness package that included a 30-minute float therapy session in a tank filled with 600 pounds of Epsom salts, which are rich in magnesium, the second most abundant element in the human body, and promote lymphatic drainage. Floating stimulates a parasympathetic response, reducing muscle tension, blood pressure, heart rate and oxygen consumption.

She also had 20-minutes of Infrared Sauna Therapy. The clinically-backed near-, mid- and far-infrared system feels similar to sunbathing as it warms your core body temperature in a heated space, delivering personalized results. The service also included a 30-minute therapeutic massage with Jill, who focused on Rachel’s shoulders and lower back, which had been causing her some discomfort.

“I’d had flotation therapy in Los Angeles years ago, but those early tanks were very confining,” says Rachel. “This time I walked into the tank and waded into the water, which is about a foot deep. Once I shut the door and laid down, I heard a melodious voice telling me that my float session was about to begin. You’re not in total darkness. Instead, a warm pink light illuminates the capsule, inducing a feeling of comfort and well-being. The experience felt somewhat primordial to me, almost like floating in your mother’s womb, making it easier to disconnect from the trivialities of daily life. The combination of weightlessness, solitude and absolute quiet induced a meditative state that was deeply relaxing. After my treatment, I showered in order to wash the salt completely off my body. Feeling refreshed and renewed, I made a decision to indulge in self-care like this more often.”

New projects are already in the works at Nemacolin, which we hope to cover upon completion. One thing you can say about the world-class resort is that it’s never content to rest on its laurels. Maybe that’s why guests return year after year. In fact, Travel + Leisure announced that Nemacolin was ranked #2 in the mid-Atlantic region for 2023 in its annual “World’s Best Awards” with a reader score of 90.9.

To learn more about what Nemacolin has to offer and to book your next stay, visit their website and follow on Instagram: @nemacolin

[Photos courtesy of Nemacolin, Marianne Dougherty, and Rachel Henry]

Marianne Dougherty is an award-winning writer, editor and publisher, who has twice been a finalist for a Golden Quill Award for journalistic excellence. Predicting the day spa trend, she founded American Spa magazine in 1998. She has also been editor in chief of American Salon, Launchpad, and Shades of Beauty magazines. In 2023 she published her first novel, What We Remember, which was a Mariel Hemingway Book Club selection. Follow her on Instagram: @mariannedoughertyauthor. Or visit her website: mariannedougherty.com

Rachel Henry is a licensed esthetician, skin care educator and founder of Spa Harmony at the Wilfred R. Cameron Wellness Center in Washington, Pennsylvania. She is also a singer/songwriter and graduate of Musicians Institute in Hollywood where she met Joni Mitchell, who came to hear her perform. Follow her on Instagram @rachelvere. Or contact her at: rachel.spabeautytoday@gmail.com.