Behind the Brand: 4.5.6 Focuses on Custom Skincare for Melanin-Rich Skin
Skincare. Skincare. Skincare. Who doesn’t love a good skincare routine?
I personally love skincare and learning about new brands, ingredients, and why and how different things work for different people. While the type of skin a person has (oily, combination, dry), affects their daily routine and what works for them, melanin levels in the skin can also have an impact on product efficacy. It makes so much sense, right? 4.5.6 Skin was created to address the general needs of darker phototypes while offering customized formulas that address the individual's unique skin type and concerns.
I was recently able to interview 4.5.6 Skin founder Noelly Michoux, to learn more about the brand. All the melanin rich beauties reading this might want to pay extra close attention. She knows her stuff. Here’s what she had to say:
How long has 4.5.6 Skin been in business?
After 2 years in R&D, we launched 4.5.6 Skin in October 2020.
What inspired the creation of the brand?
In 2017, after spending 5 years in New York City working as a Brand & E-Commerce Manager for luxury beauty and skincare brands, I moved back home to Europe. Moving from the U.S. to Europe made me realize that women of color in the U.S. faced the same frustrations as women of color in Europe, myself included. The lack of inclusivity was shocking to me as from the perspective of a Black woman growing up in France, I always believed that inclusivity was a solved problem in the U.S.
I quickly became obsessed with understanding the link between having melanin-rich skin and the fact that skincare products were never as effective as promised. Why could I not get rid of my hyperpigmentation no matter what expensive product I tried? Why did my skin feel dry and dull, especially in the winter?
My questions and research led me to discover the Fitzpatrick scale which classifies skin phototypes with specific reference to the risk of sunburn and skin cancer. So phototype I, II, and III being skin that has low melanin levels and sunburn easily. Phototypes IV, V, and VI have medium-to-high melanin levels and tan easily. However, I also learned that the level of melanin was not only the visible difference in the skin but there are structural and functional differences.
Melanin-rich skin is thicker so that impacts how you need to hydrate the skin
That desquamation is 2.5x higher which is why melanin-rich skin can feel and look duller
The melanocytes (the cells that produce melanin) are very robust and because melanin plays a protective role for the skin, that means that any aggression to the skin, triggers the melanocytes to produce excess melanin which is why these skin are prone to hyperpigmentation.
Learning all of this scientific information was such a relief! I finally understood that my skin wasn't the problem, it was that products designed and formulated to work for my skin were just not available. The majority of skincare brands are formulated with phototypes I, II, and III (Caucasian) skin in mind and are tested only on these skin types. Not only that, but I learned that most brands that were positioned to serve darker skin tones will eventually get white-label formulas created and tested to go to market.
That’s when I decided to team up with scientists and formulations experts to start 4.5.6 skin as a first-of-its-kind premium skincare company that harnesses melanin-driven science (R&D) & technology (data & AI) to create fresh, personalized skincare for people of color that brings joy, confidence, and real results.
What has been your secret to the brands success?
I always take things one obstacle at a time. I never let myself stress about how big a task may be; I keep my mind on the bigger picture and work towards that goal.
What advice do you have for those just starting out with or interested in improving their skincare regime?
Beauty starts with knowledge. The more you know about your skin, and the more you listen to how your skin reacts, the better decision you can make.
Learn how to read the ingredients list. Turn over the bottle and do some research on what ingredients are in the product. See how they work and if they are intended to fit your skin type.
Keep your routine simple. 3 steps of a well-formulated routine will always be better than 6 steps of products that have no real benefit to your skin.
Be consistent! With time and consistency comes compounded results. Focus on trying a new routine for at least a month - mixing will only confuse your skin.
What are your best-selling products?
Hyperpigmentation is the main pain point for skin phototypes IV, V, and VI so our bestseller is our Sevenly Delight Brightening Serum which is a brightening serum that primarily targets hyperpigmentation. In second comes the 3-step pigmentation set which is a full routine created to help target hyperpigmentation.
Who or what is your inspiration/keeps you motivated?
My family here in Europe and also in Cameroon is so proud of my journey. Their unlimited source of resilience and support is the energy I need to keep going, even when things feel impossible.
Any beauty/wellness tips to share with our readers?
Keep your mind clear: pour your thoughts onto a piece of paper, read them, figure out what occupies too much space up there, and make a plan to solve it. Give your mind space to think about more than just one thing that occupies your time.
Keep your guts clear : My naturopath gave me a little gut clearing recipe. It is not for everyone but it will definitely clear your guts of unwanted bacteria!
For 2 weeks (4 if you’re brave) swallow one clove of garlic, cut in pill size. Down it with a tall glass of water mixed with one lemon juice. Drink 2L per day and see the change in your transit, your skin, and your BREATH!
Adopt the hands-only policy: To clean your face, your hands are all you need! Find a gentle oil or gel cleanser (like the Green Bae Cleansing Gel or Come Clean Cleansing Oil) to cleanse your face in the morning and at night.
Life has been difficult for everyone over the past year and a half. What have you been doing to bring yourself joy in 2020 and into 2021?
Recently, I bought myself a bike and it's been the best thing I have done for myself! Biking reduces my stress levels and gives me a sense of calm and peace. I also have runner's knee so biking has proven to be the best form of exercise for my injury.
Any specific things we should know about the brand?
I co-founded 4.5.6 Skin with a team of scientists and dermatologists. My co-founder, Imen Azaiez is a Doctor in Pharmacy and specializes in dermo-cosmetics and natural remedies. My other co-founder, Dr. Carlos A. Charles, MD, is an NYC-based Board Certified Dermatologist that specializes in treating melanin-rich skin. When we initially started the R&D process, we put both the physiology and unique needs of melanin-rich skin at the front, back, and center of our entire process. Our goal was to create high-performance formulations with the highest tolerance, that solve skin concerns but ultimately, make the skin more resilient. We want to respect the skin's integrity and also the environment which is why all of our products are:
Cruelty-free
Made with ingredients from ethically sourced suppliers
Offer only glass packaging that is recyclable
Each formula is freshly manufactured to reduce the amount of waste
Tested on melanin-rich skin
We formulate without the following ingredients:
No demineralized water
No plastic powders
No silicones
No denatured alcohol
No Mineral oils
No Paraben, no phenoxyethanol
No Phthalates, no allergens
We use a low % of hypoallergenic fragrances and our customers can tailor their fragrance levels from normal, mild to no fragrance to respect the most sensitive skin
Does your brand support any specific causes or non-profits?
After less than a year in operations, we are finally in a position to find a cause that we can support. Education and prevention around skin bleaching is something that is important to me and we're looking for an organization to partner with.
What other brands are currently loving/supporting/want to shout out?
I am a huge fan of Hyper Skin! I love their vibe and cannot wait to try the product soon.
Be sure to follow them @hyperskin.
The 4.5.6 Skin line is available online at www.456skin.com. Don’t forget to follow them @456skin.
Tara KP Troszak is an LA-based lawyer, self-proclaimed cat lady, writer and freelance makeup artist for MAC cosmetics. She lives in the San Fernando Valley with her husband Nick and her cat Chevy. Follow her on Instagram: @makeupbytkp.