Beauty Boss: Tracey Ryan, Bia Master Formulator for Codex Beauty
Tracey Ryan.
Our latest Beauty Boss is Tracey Ryan, Master Formulator for Bia—a line of clean, Irish skincare products that is the first collection to launch under Codex Beauty, a collective of global skincare brands built on science, natural ingredients, and plant-based preservatives that was founded in Silicon Valley by entrepreneur Barbara Paldus.
Bia products originated in the forests and rocky shores of Ireland, and work to blend ancient Irish herbal knowledge with modern science, resulting in products that are powered with bio-actives sourced from wild-harvested native Irish plants. We spoke with Ryan, who shared beauty and wellness tips, her favorite ways to relax, and more.
When was Codex Beauty founded? What’s the meaning behind the name?
Codex Beauty was founded in 2018 and is a global collective of natural skincare brands based on organic plant extracts and modern science. The name “Codex” comes from the first-bound books, where scrolls were bound together by stacking the pages and fixing one edge to a spine. It was the most important advance in book-making at the time, as it meant that knowledge could be brought together and transported easily.
Similarly, at Codex Beauty we have gathered knowledge of botany, herbal medicine, plant extraction, GMP grade manufacturing, clinical trials, preservation, etc., and presented them to the consumer because we believe that knowledge is the new luxury in skin care.
How did you get involved with the brand?
I had my own small, natural skincare brand in Ireland for seven years, which I set up after receiving my degree in Herbal Science. Barbara approached me last year and asked if we would like to join the Codex collective. I said “yes,” my small company was purchased, and we now make the Bia line for Codex. We came to Barbara’s attention in Cork airport as she was travelling a lot with her previous company and would always pick up skincare products to try on her young son, who suffered with very sensitive skin. She fell in love with our Skin Superfood and when she decided to move into natural beauty, she thankfully came looking for us.
Tell us about your role with the company and your responsibilities.
I’m now the Managing Director for Codex Beauty Europe, as well as the Master Formulator for the Bia line. I create new products for Bia in our R&D lab in Ireland. It’s an exciting process and I always learn something from it. I look at what benefits we want the product to have and then I go through the plants that I know have these benefits. I think about the constituents that provide these benefits and how best to extract them. It’s also important for me to consider where a plant grows and if it’s something that can be wild-harvested or farmed. Then when I’m happy with the plant extracts, I set about creating a nice formulation with good texture, scent, etc.
Next, I get samples out to our team across the globe for feedback and the process continues. I also like to keep on top of different areas, like the sales and PR teams here in Ireland. We are always adding information to our website so usually I’m writing posts on preservatives, plant extracts, and organic farming. Ingredient procurement is probably my favorite part of the job and I love nothing more than heading out to meet a supplier, especially if it’s on an organic farm or a seaweed supplier on the coast. And of course, there’s daily meetings online with the different parts of the team around the world pulling the whole operation together.
Can you share more about your background and journey in the industry?
I always wanted to work with plants and that’s what led me to study Horticulture and then Herbal Science. During my final year of earning my degree, we were tasked with creating a product based on herbal ingredients. I had an idea for a line of products that were so pure they were edible and so Bia was born. “Bia” is the Irish word for “food.” I ran Bia as a small family business with my husband for seven years until we were purchased by Codex. My experience of running a small business has really stood out to me, as I understand and have experience with all the elements of running a business.
Does Bia have a hero product?
Yes, it’s most definitely Skin Superfood. It’s made with a blend of five herbal extracts and is so good at keeping skin hydrated. We got results back from clinical trials and by day 84, 100% of people testing it had seen a 52% in hydration levels in their skin as measured by a dermatologist. They also reported anti-aging and skin restructuring benefits, too. I was like a proud mother reading the results—I knew it was a good product, but to see the data in front of me really made it hit home. I tell people to use it anywhere they have dry skin, use it as a moisturizer, night cream, after-sun, or on eczema. It’s a multi-use product with scientifically-proven benefits!
What are your favorite products from Bia?
Right now, my favorite product is the Facial Oil. It’s a very light, dry oil so it sinks into the skin quickly. It gives a wonderful healthy glow to skin and works great as a primer because makeup sits over it very well. I used some beautiful native Irish ingredients in this product: bog myrtle, an essential oil of a plant that grows in our bogs; Fucus serratus seaweed hand-harvested from the west coast of Ireland, golden sea buckthorn full of antioxidants, and rosehip oil with its vitamin A content. When I was developing this product, I used to think of it as wild Irish ingredients for wild Irish weather.
Where are Bia products sold?
Right now we sell direct to the consumer through our global website. Here in Ireland and in other territories, we are starting to partner with select retailers who understand and support what we are doing.
Bia Collection is a new class of clean skin care that harnesses the untapped power of indigenous Irish botanicals and cutting-edge, green technology.
Who inspires you?
My inspiration has always been Countess Markievicz, an Irish revolutionary who was famous for fighting for women’s rights and Irish freedom. She came from a wealthy family and left that security to follow what she believed in. She was fearless, brave, and fought alongside the heroes of the Irish revolution. Her fashion advice to the small handful of Irish women who took up arms was, “Dress suitably in short skirts and strong boots. Leave your jewels in the bank and buy a revolver.”
She may be an unlikely inspiration for someone in the beauty industry, but I think to get ahead in any industry you need to be brave and fearless, be authentic, and don’t follow the crowd. I have the upmost respect for people who live by their principles.
Secret to success?
Be passionate about what you do—your passion is contagious and will bring people along with you. I think if you are lucky enough to be doing something you love, this positivity radiates from you and other people want to be around that. I always put myself out there and take every opportunity I get to speak about my business or my passion for herbalism. People remember me as “the plant lady,” but that’s great because when an opportunity to speak about plants or my business arises, people always think of me.
Beauty secrets?
Be gentle to your skin. Whether you have dry, oily, or combination skin, you need to be gentle with it. Don’t use harsh cleansers. I personally will not use anything that lathers or foams on my skin, as most of these products strip the oil from skin. If you have dry skin you really don’t need this, but if you have oily skin you also don’t need this because removing excess oil will just trigger your sebaceous glands to produce more oil. I prefer cream or oil-based cleansers. In fact, my favorite part of my skincare routine is doing a double cleanse. I use our Exfoliating Wash, which is cream-based, followed by a cleansing oil that I’m working on in R&D.
Wellness tips?
I believe in the power of positive thinking. Of course, some things can’t be solved by positive thinking, but I think most situations can be made better. I start the day with visualization and affirmations. I believe centering your goals and ambitions in your mind each day makes you more likely to make decisions that lead you closer to your goals. And of course, I believe in the power of nature—getting outside in the fresh air, gardening, or walking in the wilderness always makes me feel better physically and mentally.
Best advice?
Learn how to say “no.” I have learned this the hard way. I don’t like letting people down, so I would say “yes” to everything and found myself overworked and stressed. I have gotten better at saying “no.” Value yourself and your time.
Favorite way to relax?
My favorite way to relax is to go wild camping with my husband and two sons. We have a few secret spots on the west coast of Ireland where we love to go to, set up a tent, and just hang out for a few days. We walk on the beach at night and cook over a campfire. I teach the boys about the plants we find. We switch off the phones and just enjoy the solitude. I get a real kick out of the idea that we are fending for ourselves. If I don’t have time for this, just deleting social media apps from my phone and reading in bed will do the trick.
For more information and to purchase Bia products, visit codexbeauty.com and follow them on Instagram: @codexbeauty
[Images courtesy of Codex Beauty]
Kamala Kirk is a University of Southern California graduate and has been an editor/writer for more than a decade. She has written for E! Online, Total Beauty, TravelAge West, Malibu Times Magazine, and many more. She resides in Los Angeles and is a proud pug mom. Follow her on Instagram: @kamalakirk