Tastemakers and Trendsetters: Fashion Designer Amber Doyle

Fashion designer Amber Doyle. [Photo by Phyllis Leibowitz]

In Tastemakers and Trendsetters, we talk to inspirational leaders in the world of spa, beauty and wellness. This week we had a unique twist and chatted with Amber Doyle, a fashion designer and custom tailor in New York City, whose work has been featured in Vogue, The New York Post, The New York Times and Harper’s Bazaar, to name a few. She has also worked with artists such as Hozier, Adam Driver, Alec Baldwin and Paris Hilton, among others.

How long have you worked in fashion and what inspired you to get into the industry?

I started working in fashion shortly after I moved to New York City and graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology. I opened my first retail location in Manhattan’s Lower East Side in 2009. I have been creating and dressing all walks of life ever since.

My mom always tells me that from a very young age when I would put something on, it would totally transform me. I still believe fashion has that transformative power. It can reflect and amplify people’s moods. I'm also fascinated by extremely functional design, especially the sort of things you see on men’s suits and military clothing.

Tell us about your work. Is there a signature style you are known for or do you add any unique type of flair to clothing?

I specialize in custom clothing for men and women, specifically custom suits. I love classically tailored items like men’s suits and overcoats.  I also believe in glamour and rebellion, and am very inspired by the clothing of the 1940s, 1960s and 1970s. I work with a lot of touring musicians and enjoy designing clothing for stage wear. This type of clothing requires details that are more heightened so they read well from the audience.

Do you have any memorable moments working with celebrities?

I had a very charming experience working with Mickey Rourke. He came in to get some custom shirts and was a total character! He had a strong presence, was very charismatic, and knew exactly what he wanted— which was not limited to just the clothing in the store. I would love to tell you more but I always respect my clients' privacy.

Are there any projects you are most proud of?

It's hard to narrow it down because I feel a strong connection to all the pieces I make. I work very closely with Albert Hammond Jr. of The Strokes. I designed a series for him that we named “The Racing Suit.” These are 3-piece suit, shirt and pant combinations with a ‘racing stripe’ that runs down the left side. The design draws inspiration from his love of motorcycle racing, the clean bold lines of racing uniforms, and classic cafe racer leather jackets. The overall appearance is slick, striking, and reads very well on stage.  

What are some of your favorite clothing items that you’ve made?

I love the pieces I’ve made for musicians and things inspired and influenced by rock and roll. My favorite suit designer is Freddie Burretti. I’ve recreated one of his most recognizable pieces many times—a black and white striped jacket, famously worn by my favorite musician David Bowie.

I have always had a fascination with military garments—their simple and sleek design, their high function and what they represent. They’re steeped in history and culture, and they reflect the progression of design. My father was in the Navy for 20 years and was a commercial pilot for another 20. Aviation specifically has always been a fascination of mine. I love the high design of WWII aviation jackets.

I also love how aviation and motorcycle clothing mutually influenced each other. Much of their designs are similar or pulled from one another. I own a 1950s women’s Harley Davidson horsehide motorcycle jacket. It's a true collector's piece. You can see the fusion of both aviation and riding in this jacket. The detachable shearling collar was originally developed to provide warmth for pilots, before planes were as heavily insulated as they are today. I really love that this jacket was designed for a badass woman during a time when that was so incredibly rare—and it’s in my size!

[Photo by Michael Leviton]

Who inspires you?

I'm inspired by pioneers from all different walks of life who challenged the system and went against the grain. Someone like Amelia Earhart who paved her own path instead of following others. That’s why I love designers who have a strong, uncompromising vision. Coco Chanel completely changed the way that women dress. She took traditional men’s Navy knitwear and created a soft, relaxed look for women that was revolutionary in the 1920s and 1930s. Yves Saint Laurent put a suit on a woman, made it ready to wear, and changed the entire fashion industry forever.

Secret to success?

Ambition. Passion. Never giving up. But beyond that, finding what makes you happy. Happiness is a success in itself.

Do you have any fashion beauty tips?

For makeup, I’m always partial to the cat eye and red lipstick combo. There’s nothing sexier than a woman in red lipstick. It makes me feel strong, powerful and sexy, and it makes me feel like me. I don’t hide behind my makeup, but I like the transformation it brings and the confidence it gives me.

No matter what you’re doing, if you don’t feel good in what you’re wearing, it holds you back. I love getting dressed to go to my boxing gym or go for a run. The same way a little glitter eye makeup or sequins can bring your spirits up, workout clothing should uplift and energize. Clothing can put you in the right mental headspace and also motivate you physically.

Any fashion tips or tricks to share?

The best thing anyone can put on or carry with him or herself is confidence. That might sound silly, but no matter where you are or what you are doing, without confidence, you’ve got nothing. I figured out the things to wear or do that make me feel my best that make me feel most confident.

Best advice?

1. Be your most authentic self.

2. Believe in yourself—all the power is within you.

Are you seeing any new trends for shoppers to look out for this spring/summer?

I hope with all the down time we currently have that we reflect on and reassess our approach to clothing and fashion. The industry has been moving so quickly with such fast turnarounds and so many collections per year. I love when people invest in and actually wear their clothing. You can tell when someone feels comfortable with his or her style versus putting on something brand new that they don’t even know how to move in. I'm a woman that loves options, but beyond options I love quality items. I hope the new trend is less fast fashion and a return to quality.

Be sure to follow Amber’s incredible work on Instagram: @amber_doyle_ and visit her online at amberdoyle.com.

[Image courtesy of Amber Doyle]

Jennifer Novoseletsky is a proud Illinois State University alumna with a journalism degree. She has been writing and editing for more than seven years—three in the skin care industry. While her heart lies in the city of Chicago, she currently resides in the suburbs, but is drawn to mountains and the outdoors.